Sunday 1 January 2012
Happy 2012!!! To ring in the new year and help you save money, here are some of my personal tips to get better deals on service and maximize value from your preferred dealer:
- If you bought a used car, choose a dealer and register your VIN with them. By doing this, you’ll be on record, and when you go in for service, you may be notified of any potential safety-based recalls for your car and to be informed as to whether you have an extended warranty or not that can be transferable from the previous owner.
- Sometimes it pays to decline their up-sells. Be nice about it and say you’ll have the work performed later. Some dealers will keep a record of your declined service, and to lure you back, will offer a 10%-15% off coupon on the recommended services in the mail. Feel free to hold out to get this coupon, or straight-up ask them if you could get a 10-15% discount on the spot before you decide to go ahead with the work. Most dealers will say yes to have your business.
- Once you’ve built a relationship with a dealer, don’t be afraid to ask for 10%-15% off parts and/or labour. If you are a new customer, ask your dealer if there are any VIP programs, oil change punch card programs (i.e. buy 4 oil changes get the 5th one free) or Preferred Customer programs where you buy a pre-paid card that entitles you to a parts discounts and includes a few oil changes plus "valet cleaning" car washes.
- Try to coincide your tire rotation services (usually every 12,000 km to 15,000 km) with any brake work or brake maintenance, which is recommended once a year. Most shops will not charge for tire rotation with brake maintenance since the wheels have to come off by default and put back on anyways. Asking for a tire rotation with yearly brake maintenance can save you anywhere from $25-$50.
- When expensive parts on your car needs replacement like brake calipers, exhaust components, certain filters, electrical parts like starter motors and alternators, don’t hesitate to ask the dealer or service facility if they can help you source cheaper aftermarket parts or used junkyard parts. Most shops will be open to this option as they would not want to lose the potential labour revenue. Most dealers will not usually offer the option of aftermarket parts due to potential fitment issues and the quality of some aftermarket components, making it hard to offer a warranty, but unless you're driving an ultra-exotic car, most aftermarket parts will do just fine.
- If you bought a used car from a large dealer, ask your salesperson if he or his manager could give you one or two free oil changes. Chances are, they will to help build a long-term relationship.
Hope these help you. Drive on.....
Saturday 17 December 2011
Here are some things I highly recommend motorists make sure they do this winter:
1. Turn on your headlights!
Newer cars today have ultra-bright dash lights that make many drivers unaware that their headlights are not on as it's getting dark out. 2006+ Honda Civic owners are notorious for this. BE AWARE, and turn on your lights! You want to be seen from front and from back, particularly on foggy mornings, rainfall, snowfall, dusk, dawn, or if in any doubt, turn 'em on for extra safety.
2. Brush and scrape snow/ice off ALL your windows and lights!
Ever see those cars whose headlights, brake lights and turn signals you can't even see because they are covered in snow? Or those folks who don't clean their side nor rear windows, and when you confront them, they give you attitude? You might be one of those people. For the love of safety, please take the time to scrape and clean off snow on windows and lights to maximize visibility - and safety. Never forget to brush off the lights so when you signal, brake, or are in motion, you can be seen.
3. Lift your wiper blades off the windshield!
You should lift your wiper blades up if you are expecting freezing rain or a big snowfall to make it easier to brush off snow, but if in doubt, always lift up your wiper blades before you drive off to make sure they are not frozen to the glass. You want to do this so it doesn't strain the wiper motor in case the blades are frozen to the glass. Wiper motors and linkages can be expensive to replace, and such parts often are special order from the dealer only.
4. Kick your shoes/boots together to get the snow off before entering the vehicle!
This not only makes it less messy inside, but also, by preventing water and salt from getting onto your carpeting, you may also prevent the floorboards from rusting through over time. A lot of cars start rusting through to the bottom due to trapped moisture from inside and being pelted with road elements from underneath, so get some good quality floor mats, empty them if the treads fill with water, and minimize snow from getting inside by kicking your shoes together (and don't be shy to tell your family members and close friends to do so if they're riding with you). Nissan Altimas are notorious for floorboard rusting.
5. Accelerate gently after a cold start!
Newer cars today don't require 10-15 minute warm-ups. If anything, idling wastes gas and dirties the engine oil faster. When you fire up a cold engine, let it run for about 30-45 seconds, then drive off to warm up faster, but accelerate gently, like no higher than 2500 rpm per shift to let the engine and transmission gradually get to operating temps and prevent excessive wear. Once you see that coolant gauge start moving, you can start accelerating a bit faster.
6. Check fluid levels and tire pressure when adding windshield washer fluid!
I know it's usually cold, snowy and miserable when you have to add washer fluid, but while the hood is open, take advantage and also have your fluids checked, particularly your engine oil. You don't want to have low oil levels in winter, because cold starts are what causes the most engine wear, and you want enough oil and the right thickness of oil to flow better in the deep cold. You want to make sure the oil levels are right at the Full mark, and that it is clean. Change your motor oil every 6000 to 8000 km using a high-quality engine oil and oil filters from the dealer, or a premium aftermarket brand like Wix and Purolator. I personally am not a fan of the orange Fram brand nor the cheapie Defense brands that most independent shops use, because the construction is shoddy and the filtering volume is low compared to better brands.
Drive On....
1. Turn on your headlights!
Newer cars today have ultra-bright dash lights that make many drivers unaware that their headlights are not on as it's getting dark out. 2006+ Honda Civic owners are notorious for this. BE AWARE, and turn on your lights! You want to be seen from front and from back, particularly on foggy mornings, rainfall, snowfall, dusk, dawn, or if in any doubt, turn 'em on for extra safety.
2. Brush and scrape snow/ice off ALL your windows and lights!
Ever see those cars whose headlights, brake lights and turn signals you can't even see because they are covered in snow? Or those folks who don't clean their side nor rear windows, and when you confront them, they give you attitude? You might be one of those people. For the love of safety, please take the time to scrape and clean off snow on windows and lights to maximize visibility - and safety. Never forget to brush off the lights so when you signal, brake, or are in motion, you can be seen.
3. Lift your wiper blades off the windshield!
You should lift your wiper blades up if you are expecting freezing rain or a big snowfall to make it easier to brush off snow, but if in doubt, always lift up your wiper blades before you drive off to make sure they are not frozen to the glass. You want to do this so it doesn't strain the wiper motor in case the blades are frozen to the glass. Wiper motors and linkages can be expensive to replace, and such parts often are special order from the dealer only.
4. Kick your shoes/boots together to get the snow off before entering the vehicle!
This not only makes it less messy inside, but also, by preventing water and salt from getting onto your carpeting, you may also prevent the floorboards from rusting through over time. A lot of cars start rusting through to the bottom due to trapped moisture from inside and being pelted with road elements from underneath, so get some good quality floor mats, empty them if the treads fill with water, and minimize snow from getting inside by kicking your shoes together (and don't be shy to tell your family members and close friends to do so if they're riding with you). Nissan Altimas are notorious for floorboard rusting.
5. Accelerate gently after a cold start!
Newer cars today don't require 10-15 minute warm-ups. If anything, idling wastes gas and dirties the engine oil faster. When you fire up a cold engine, let it run for about 30-45 seconds, then drive off to warm up faster, but accelerate gently, like no higher than 2500 rpm per shift to let the engine and transmission gradually get to operating temps and prevent excessive wear. Once you see that coolant gauge start moving, you can start accelerating a bit faster.
6. Check fluid levels and tire pressure when adding windshield washer fluid!
I know it's usually cold, snowy and miserable when you have to add washer fluid, but while the hood is open, take advantage and also have your fluids checked, particularly your engine oil. You don't want to have low oil levels in winter, because cold starts are what causes the most engine wear, and you want enough oil and the right thickness of oil to flow better in the deep cold. You want to make sure the oil levels are right at the Full mark, and that it is clean. Change your motor oil every 6000 to 8000 km using a high-quality engine oil and oil filters from the dealer, or a premium aftermarket brand like Wix and Purolator. I personally am not a fan of the orange Fram brand nor the cheapie Defense brands that most independent shops use, because the construction is shoddy and the filtering volume is low compared to better brands.
Drive On....
Sunday 6 November 2011
In December 2010, there were a series of ultra-severe snowstorms in southwestern Ontario that hit the areas of Hwy 402 and Hwy 22 near Sarnia , Ontario
Hopefully you will never be caught in such severe weather, but nevertheless, the key with winter driving is not just to drive carefully and respect the fact that snow can start blowing spontaneously, but to be completely prepared with key items to keep in your vehicle that will help you survive should you ever be stranded.
Here are some key items to have in/on the car for winter:
- Buy a set of winter tires! The rubber on winter tires are designed to stay grippy when it is cold out, and the grippier the tires, the better traction you get. Winter tires are also designed with tiny gripping sipes that help you drive in snow better. Yes, a set of winter tires and rims are expensive, but by having an additional set of wheels, your summer tires will last longer, and a set of winter tires can be used for up to 4 or 5 seasons if you drive moderate kilometres every winter.
- Switch to winter wiper blades, or have yours checked to ensure there are no rips or tears. Just like with the rubber on snow tires, they remain softer in the cold and thus able to clean your windshield better
- Keep a blanket and extra jacket, extra pair of gloves, and some non-perishable snacks like protein/energy bars or trail mix
- An extra jug of washer fluid, booster cables, an extra pair of wiper blades, ice scraper, a quality snow brush (not the cheap wooden-handle ones!!!), a small collapsible shovel, and a large, bright quality flashlight with fresh batteries
- Your CAA card and the phone number of another tow truck company
Here are some winter driving tips:
- A very simple piece of advice: DON’T go out if you don’t have to if you are anticipating a big snowstorm or treacherous weather, even if you have winter tires. Sometimes it’s not you who could cause a collision, but someone else, or you lose control on black ice that nobody can see
- Don’t idle your car unattended (and especially not with your kids or valuable items inside!) unless your windshield is completely frozen, and you need the defroster running at maximum capacity to help melt the ice while you are there scraping. As mentioned earlier, idling wastes fuel and thieves can easily drive off with your vehicle if you are not careful.
- Keep the gas tank relatively full. I advocate filling it when it gets to just below a half tank in winter. Sometimes you never know if you will be stuck in traffic for hours, or if you’ll need the keep the engine running to stay warm should you be stranded in an emergency.
- Accelerate gently in snow, slush, or wet winter roads. In manual cars, you can start out in second gear to reduce wheel spin, and if you have traction control, turn it off in deep snow to accelerate better
- Don’t drive too fast. You want enough time to brake, and by keeping a safe distance from the car in front of you also, you will have more braking distance. Brake gently. ABS brakes increase braking distance, but they prevent the wheels from locking so you have more steering control
- Observe everyone around you on the road during winter driving. For someone driving very slow or fishtailing, they likely do not have proper tires, so keep a safe distance from them in case they slide out or lose control
- Let tailgaters pass you in inclement conditions. Big egos and speeding have no place in winter driving
- When parked and expecting snow or freezing rain, lift up your wiper arms so it will be easier to clear the windshield of snow and ice when you are leaving
- When driving in snowy, slushy conditions, always look ahead at the lights. If they are green, chances are they can turn yellow by the time you get there, so be prepared to brake if needed and try not to speed up.
It is worth noting again to keep your fuel tank at least half-full in winter before an anticipated snowstorm, and even when you are not driving long distances. Not only does this minimize moisture from getting into the gas (which could cause fuel line freezing and hard starting), but in winter, you just never know if you'll be stranded, and need to run the engine to stay warm. It is penny-wise, pound-foolish to keep the gas tank constantly low or at ¼ tank because you are going to have to eventually spend the money on gasoline anyways if you do a lot of driving, and as a bonus, putting in extra gas in winter will reduce the number of times you need to brave the cold to pump gas into the car, saving you time. It just makes perfect sense to keep your tank at least half-full.
Here Are Some Final Tips
1. DON'T turn on your wipers until you lift them up off the windshield to ensure they are not frozen to the windshield. You could damage your wiper linkages if the blades are frozen due to freezing rain, or after a big snowfall. Clear the snow around the wiper arms too before operation so they can move without obstruction.
Also, remember turn off your wiper system before you shut off your car!!! This is so they won't operate on their own automatically when you start the car up.
I cannot emphasize how important this is because if you break your wiper linkages, it can be quite expensive labour-wise to remove the windsheild cowling and fix the linkages. Worse-case scenario is you could kill your wiper motor. Do you really wanna spend a few hundred and be without your car for a few days because you didn't check that the wipers were frozen to the glass??? Dealers rarely stock wiper parts either, meaning you may need to wait a day or two for parts to come in.
2. Buy some "silicone lube" and spray the front bumper, wheel wells, rocker panels and behind the mud guards to minimize snow sticking to the area. Silicone lube is also good for rubber weatherstripping to prevent them from freezing to your doors and trunklids after freezing rain. This is particularly important for those who have minivans and SUVs with automatic side sliding doors, or power rear liftgates. Don't strain the motors by leaving the weatherstripping dry.
To prevent weatherstripping from tearing if they happen to be frozen to your doors, try to lift or pull on the door latch gently first to confirm, then reach with your fingertips on the bottom and sides of the doors, and gently pull the door away as you have the latch up to get it to safely separate.
3. Fill up your gas tank FIRST, then go for the car wash if you need it! In winter, water easily freezes, and you don't want your fuel fill-up door to freeze on you and not let you fill gas. A frozen fuel filler door can also damage the release mechanism, so be careful!!!
3. Fill up your gas tank FIRST, then go for the car wash if you need it! In winter, water easily freezes, and you don't want your fuel fill-up door to freeze on you and not let you fill gas. A frozen fuel filler door can also damage the release mechanism, so be careful!!!
Drive on......
"Should I get winter tires?"
My answer is an emphatic YES. I'm going address a few key questions below. Read on.
I realize some people can't get winter tires, because a) they can't afford them, b) they don't have storage space for another set of wheels, and c) they simply don't believe in them.
I know I couldn't afford them when I was a starving student in University. I got by with all-seasons, drove very carefully, and didn't go out in very snowy conditions.
The best alternative for people who can't afford a set of winter wheels is to either find used tires that are cheaper, or to not go out on very snowy days or freezing rain conditions. You account for your own safety, as well as that of other motorists.
The best option if you can't afford 2 sets of wheels is to purchase an "all-weather" tire like the Hankook Optimo 4S (sadly, Crappy Tire is the sole seller of this brand, so there's no price flexibility) or the ultra-premium Nokian WR brand.
The difference between an "all-weather" and an "all-season" tire is that the former has a snowflake symbol, which means that it meets acceptable performance specs for winter driving, but can also be driven on year-round. The thing with these tires though, is that they wear faster because the rubber compound is a bit softer in order to be good in winter, so you MUST be religious in rotating them every 10,000 km to 15,000 km to maximise their lifespan and maximise your investment.
So What's the Difference Between Winter Tires and All-Season Tires?
To me, the difference lies in 3 key areas:
1. The rubber. All-season and summer rubber gets hard like pucks when the weather gets cold, like 7 degrees C or colder. Hockey fans know that pucks glide very well on ice, and they don't provide very good grip during a November Rain when you need to brake, or trying to accelerate in snowy conditions. Winter tire rubber however, is designed to stay grippy and pliable even when it's cold. Grippy and pliable means enhanced traction, braking and acceleration.
Try this test: Pour some water on your all-season tires, and rub with your fingertips. Do the same with winter tires, and you will feel the difference in the rubber and the grippiness.
2. Tread Pattern. Winter tires have bigger tread blocks with zig-zag-like sipes that help enhance snow and ice grip. All-season tires not only get hard like pucks when cold, but they don't have these sipes. Winter tire tread is also designed in a way that when driving, it clears snow from the treads as the wheels are turning to help enhance traction.
3. Well-Built Shoulders. Just like how women like men with good shoulders, winter tires have better-designed, blockier grips on the tire shoulders, which helps you navigate turns and highway ramps safer under snowy conditions.
There Are So Many Brands! What Brand Should I get?
The cheapest winter tire brand is still better in winter than the best all-season tire, but I'll summarize my thoughts on this question below.
PROS of Cheap Winter Tires
- Price
- Greater measure of safety vs. running with all-season tires
CONS of Cheap Winter Tires
- They ride harsh and loud, which could drive some people crazy because you get what you pay for
- They may not last as long
- Less re-sale value
- In really thick snow, better, pricier brands out-perform them in braking and traction because of better rubber compounds and more R&D in tread design
******
PROS of Brand Name Winter Tires (i.e. Michelin, Toyo, Bridgestone, Pirelli)
- Strong R&D/technology, with state-of-the-art tread designs and rubber compounds
- Quieter, smoother ride, with better handling
- Longer tread life
- Strong re-sale value
CONS of Brand Name Winter Tires
- Expensive! You are paying for the premium brand name and advertising to get peace of mind
The good news is that there are brands out there that bridge the gap between good price and excellent performance and ride. You just need to do your research and talk to friends and neighbours. I've listed some brands below to consider depending on your budget and on my personal experiences:
Good ultra-premium Brands if you have the money:
- Michelin X-Ice
- Toyo Observe G-02 or Toyo Garrit
- Bridgestone Blizzak
- Any Pirelli
- Nokian Haakaapelliita (the gold standard)
The best bangs for the buck:
- Hankook iPike
- Gislaved Nordfrost 5 (my personal choice for my cars)
- The Canadian Tire brands
- Firestone Winterforce
- General Altimax
- Any Uniroyal brand
The cheapie brands that could do the job:
- Nexen Winguard (from Walmart)
- Kingstar W404 (made by Hankook)
- Semperit Speedgrip
- Triangle Snow Lion
- Infinity Winter Hero INF-049
RIMS/WHEELS
You may need to buy wheels too. I say avoid buying steel rims from chain stores like Costco and Canadian Tire, because the rims they sell are meant for multiple applications. You want to buy a rim that matches your vehicle's bolt pattern and is "hubcentric." Hubcentric just means that the wheel is an exact match with the centre bore diameter on your wheel hub. You can get hubcentric wheels from your dealer or from a specialty tire shop, and they fit best, reduce vibrations on the highway and will reduce the strain on your wheel nuts.
Speaking of wheel nuts, if you run steel rims, you may need to get a different set of wheel lug nuts to be compatible. Toyotas and Lexus for example, requires open wheels nuts for steel rims. Check with your tire shop or dealer.
How Do I Save Money Buying Winter Wheels?
1. Buy used by asking around, looking online on car forums, kijiji and craigslist
2. Ask a tire shop how small a wheel and tire size you can go and still drive safety compared to your original wheels (most times you can go smaller to save money on tires and wheels). For example, 2006-2011 Honda Civics have P205/55R16 as the original tire size, but one can downsize to P195/65R15 to save money. Your speedometer just reads differently, up to 3% different, but don't speed just to be safe!
3. Shop around, ask people how they like their winter tire brand, and comparison-shop
4. If you are leasing or buying a new car, negotiate with your salesperson to see if they can throw in a set of winter tires and wheels, or give you a substantial discount on a new set.
5. Realize that the cheapest winter tire is still better than the best all-season tire in snow. You may just have to buy the cheapest brand and then deal with a loud and harsh ride when the roads are dry
If I'm Buying Used, How Do I Make Sure I'm Getting Something Good?
1. Ask questions like why are they selling? How old are the tires? Have they ever been repaired due to a puncture?
2. Confirm the age of the tires and don't buy something older than 4 years or if you see little cracks on the sidewall and treads. You can find out the manufacture date of a tire by looking on the sidewall for a DOT Number. It should end with a 4-digit code, like -2307, or -0809. The first one means "23rd week of 2007," and the other is "8th week of 2009."
3. Measure the tread, and my personal recommendation is to not buy a winter tire with less than 6/32" of tread (new is around 11/32") unless you just need them for a winter season. You can buy something called a "tire depth gauge" to measure tread depth.
To conclude, you gotta get winter wheels. Getting a separate set of wheels make better sense because you're not gonna be paying $80 to $100+ twice a year to get tires unmounted/mounted/balanced, plus you don't let the salt and winter dirt damage your stock wheels, which could drive down the re-sale value of your car, or get you in trouble come lease return time.
Drive on, and drive safe this winter....
My answer is an emphatic YES. I'm going address a few key questions below. Read on.
I realize some people can't get winter tires, because a) they can't afford them, b) they don't have storage space for another set of wheels, and c) they simply don't believe in them.
I know I couldn't afford them when I was a starving student in University. I got by with all-seasons, drove very carefully, and didn't go out in very snowy conditions.
The best alternative for people who can't afford a set of winter wheels is to either find used tires that are cheaper, or to not go out on very snowy days or freezing rain conditions. You account for your own safety, as well as that of other motorists.
The best option if you can't afford 2 sets of wheels is to purchase an "all-weather" tire like the Hankook Optimo 4S (sadly, Crappy Tire is the sole seller of this brand, so there's no price flexibility) or the ultra-premium Nokian WR brand.
The difference between an "all-weather" and an "all-season" tire is that the former has a snowflake symbol, which means that it meets acceptable performance specs for winter driving, but can also be driven on year-round. The thing with these tires though, is that they wear faster because the rubber compound is a bit softer in order to be good in winter, so you MUST be religious in rotating them every 10,000 km to 15,000 km to maximise their lifespan and maximise your investment.
So What's the Difference Between Winter Tires and All-Season Tires?
To me, the difference lies in 3 key areas:
1. The rubber. All-season and summer rubber gets hard like pucks when the weather gets cold, like 7 degrees C or colder. Hockey fans know that pucks glide very well on ice, and they don't provide very good grip during a November Rain when you need to brake, or trying to accelerate in snowy conditions. Winter tire rubber however, is designed to stay grippy and pliable even when it's cold. Grippy and pliable means enhanced traction, braking and acceleration.
Try this test: Pour some water on your all-season tires, and rub with your fingertips. Do the same with winter tires, and you will feel the difference in the rubber and the grippiness.
2. Tread Pattern. Winter tires have bigger tread blocks with zig-zag-like sipes that help enhance snow and ice grip. All-season tires not only get hard like pucks when cold, but they don't have these sipes. Winter tire tread is also designed in a way that when driving, it clears snow from the treads as the wheels are turning to help enhance traction.
3. Well-Built Shoulders. Just like how women like men with good shoulders, winter tires have better-designed, blockier grips on the tire shoulders, which helps you navigate turns and highway ramps safer under snowy conditions.
There Are So Many Brands! What Brand Should I get?
The cheapest winter tire brand is still better in winter than the best all-season tire, but I'll summarize my thoughts on this question below.
PROS of Cheap Winter Tires
- Price
- Greater measure of safety vs. running with all-season tires
CONS of Cheap Winter Tires
- They ride harsh and loud, which could drive some people crazy because you get what you pay for
- They may not last as long
- Less re-sale value
- In really thick snow, better, pricier brands out-perform them in braking and traction because of better rubber compounds and more R&D in tread design
******
PROS of Brand Name Winter Tires (i.e. Michelin, Toyo, Bridgestone, Pirelli)
- Strong R&D/technology, with state-of-the-art tread designs and rubber compounds
- Quieter, smoother ride, with better handling
- Longer tread life
- Strong re-sale value
CONS of Brand Name Winter Tires
- Expensive! You are paying for the premium brand name and advertising to get peace of mind
The good news is that there are brands out there that bridge the gap between good price and excellent performance and ride. You just need to do your research and talk to friends and neighbours. I've listed some brands below to consider depending on your budget and on my personal experiences:
Good ultra-premium Brands if you have the money:
- Michelin X-Ice
- Toyo Observe G-02 or Toyo Garrit
- Bridgestone Blizzak
- Any Pirelli
- Nokian Haakaapelliita (the gold standard)
The best bangs for the buck:
- Hankook iPike
- Gislaved Nordfrost 5 (my personal choice for my cars)
- The Canadian Tire brands
- Firestone Winterforce
- General Altimax
- Any Uniroyal brand
The cheapie brands that could do the job:
- Nexen Winguard (from Walmart)
- Kingstar W404 (made by Hankook)
- Semperit Speedgrip
- Triangle Snow Lion
- Infinity Winter Hero INF-049
RIMS/WHEELS
You may need to buy wheels too. I say avoid buying steel rims from chain stores like Costco and Canadian Tire, because the rims they sell are meant for multiple applications. You want to buy a rim that matches your vehicle's bolt pattern and is "hubcentric." Hubcentric just means that the wheel is an exact match with the centre bore diameter on your wheel hub. You can get hubcentric wheels from your dealer or from a specialty tire shop, and they fit best, reduce vibrations on the highway and will reduce the strain on your wheel nuts.
Speaking of wheel nuts, if you run steel rims, you may need to get a different set of wheel lug nuts to be compatible. Toyotas and Lexus for example, requires open wheels nuts for steel rims. Check with your tire shop or dealer.
How Do I Save Money Buying Winter Wheels?
1. Buy used by asking around, looking online on car forums, kijiji and craigslist
2. Ask a tire shop how small a wheel and tire size you can go and still drive safety compared to your original wheels (most times you can go smaller to save money on tires and wheels). For example, 2006-2011 Honda Civics have P205/55R16 as the original tire size, but one can downsize to P195/65R15 to save money. Your speedometer just reads differently, up to 3% different, but don't speed just to be safe!
3. Shop around, ask people how they like their winter tire brand, and comparison-shop
4. If you are leasing or buying a new car, negotiate with your salesperson to see if they can throw in a set of winter tires and wheels, or give you a substantial discount on a new set.
5. Realize that the cheapest winter tire is still better than the best all-season tire in snow. You may just have to buy the cheapest brand and then deal with a loud and harsh ride when the roads are dry
If I'm Buying Used, How Do I Make Sure I'm Getting Something Good?
1. Ask questions like why are they selling? How old are the tires? Have they ever been repaired due to a puncture?
2. Confirm the age of the tires and don't buy something older than 4 years or if you see little cracks on the sidewall and treads. You can find out the manufacture date of a tire by looking on the sidewall for a DOT Number. It should end with a 4-digit code, like -2307, or -0809. The first one means "23rd week of 2007," and the other is "8th week of 2009."
3. Measure the tread, and my personal recommendation is to not buy a winter tire with less than 6/32" of tread (new is around 11/32") unless you just need them for a winter season. You can buy something called a "tire depth gauge" to measure tread depth.
To conclude, you gotta get winter wheels. Getting a separate set of wheels make better sense because you're not gonna be paying $80 to $100+ twice a year to get tires unmounted/mounted/balanced, plus you don't let the salt and winter dirt damage your stock wheels, which could drive down the re-sale value of your car, or get you in trouble come lease return time.
Drive on, and drive safe this winter....
Monday 24 October 2011
I’m a huge proponent of buying used cars over buying new, and especially over leasing (unless you have a business and can write it off), so here are some not-so-obvious tips from my personal arsenal that I want to share to help you find that beautiful previously-enjoyed vehicle:
- Internet Check
If you are shopping for a vehicle of interest or want to go to a particular dealer for service, many dealers nowadays have profiles of their sales and service staff. Go to the dealer websites and browse the faces and names if the websites have links to staff profiles. It’s not always a sure bet when you’re judging appearances obviously (take a look at your Facebook photos!), but if you feel more comfortable speaking to say a female sales rep or service advisor, someone who’s the same race/nationality as you are, someone who can speak the same language you speak, someone who’s similar in age, or maybe you prefer a more docile-looking, baby-face salesman vs. a grizzled or greasy looking creeper, you can go into the dealer knowing who you may see and perhaps being familiar with some faces to start. Some people do judge books by their covers, and sometimes, they are right.
- Sunday Sleuthing
If you want to take your time browsing cars at a large dealer without being approached by a high-pressure salesperson, go browse on a Sunday. Most large dealers will be closed on Sundays, and as long as you behave and don’t touch the cars, visually checking out their condition up-close, peeking inside through the windows, and writing down the VIN to do some pre-emptive investigative work will put you in a better, more prepared position in case you want to return and test drive it.
- Be a Glove Box Fox
If you see a used car that was off-lease or a trade-in, look in the glove box and dig out the owner’s manual portfolio. In the portfolio, it may contain a business card of the original dealership and salesperson from where and whom the car was purchased from, as well as documentation such as the name of the previous owner, his/her address, age, and maybe even stamped service records in their maintenance guide if there is one, or printed service records. Looking into this portfolio could also give you a clue as to what region the car was owned and operated in (i.e. Southern Ontario or Northern Ontario, the latter of which is harsher on cars? Or owned by someone living in an upscale neighbourhood vs. a ghetto?) in order to help you evaluate if its had a previously good life or not.
By finding out which dealer the car was originally purchased from, you could write down the VIN of the car, pay that dealer a visit in person or call, be really nice to the service advisor, and ask him/her if he/she could run a scan on the VIN to see if it’s been serviced there regularly or not. They may not be allowed to give you printouts due to confidentiality rules, but they will be able to verbally tell you whether there are service records or not, and whether they were done within the manufacturer’s recommended intervals or not.
- Mind the Plates
Be aware of newly-issued license plates on a used car you are buying privately inOntario
Hope these help! Drive on.....
Wednesday 19 October 2011
For most people, going to the dealership for service is about as pleasant as passing a kidney stone, so here are my top 10 pointers to help make your next service visit more pleasant:
- Be Detailed
If there are any issues with your car like strange sounds or vibrations, be as detailed as possible when describing the symptoms. The more info, the better, as the mechanic can better figure out how to diagnose and what to check.
- You Can Say No
When going in for an oil change, be prepared to be up-sold, unless it’s your brand-new car’s first service visit. When pitched, the key is to not feel pressured whatsoever. You can say no to all recommended services, and ask as many questions as you want/need to. If you are a new customer, it would help to bring old receipts of past work done so you could make a decision, and to also gauge whether the shop is being honest.
- Beware of "Free"
When a dealer offers free services like a multi-point inspection or a brake inspection, it’s a strategy to get you in the door so they will pick your car apart and find what repairs and maintenance are recommended to up-sell you. If you don’t really need a brake inspection, don’t bother going and don't let the word "free" cloud your judgement.
- Get Inside Help
If you have a problem with your new vehicle that needs attention, leverage your salesperson who you purchased the car from to bring you to the service department. Someone who is close with a dealer colleague most times will get squeezed in for an appointment sooner, or have a minor problem get checked out without having to pay, but just don’t ask for the world, i.e. if something is going to take a while, just make an appointment, or be patient if you just need nitrogen put in your tires. - Build a Relationship
If you find a good service advisor, maintain a relationship so you could build a more personal rapport. With a personal rapport, he/she will be more honest with you, lobby for you with some repairs or warranty work, and maybe even hook you up with a discount on a huge bill or a major service.
- Don't Settle
Do not tolerate poor service. If the dealer closest to home is convenient but their service stinks, go to another dealer that may be farther, but provides better service. Don’t reward bad service or shops who always try to up-sell you mercilessly. Asking for referrals from friends, colleagues, neighbours, relatives and internet car forums can help too.
- Ask to See
If a dealer is recommending additional services, ask to be chaperoned into the shop so they will show you the worn or loose parts. Even if you know nothing about cars, pretend you do. By asking questions and asking to see things, you will force them to be honest and back up their recommendations. Don’t buy any BS about the shop not allowing customers into the service area. If they say that to you, don’t go to them again.
If you can, I recommend you wait at the dealer while the car is being serviced. Most have wireless internet, so you might be able to bring your work there and have a free coffee. By being there, if they try to up-sell you, you can ask to see the worn parts before making a decision or getting a second opinion. If you leave the car with them, some dishonest shops may try to up-sell services knowing you’re not around to see, and hoping you’ll give them the go-ahead. - Recommended Up-Sells
Preventive maintenance-based up-sells I encourage you to go ahead with if recommended and at the proper intervals are tire rotations, alignments with new tires, engine air filters, cabin filters, fuel filters, fan belts, wiper blades, transmission fluid changes, coolant flushes, differential fluid changes, spark plugs and a brake service. All of the mentioned should be paid attention to at least once a year, with brake services recommended once a year. Most shops do not charge labour to install wiper blades. Services that are less important if the car is otherwise running fine are battery services (most batteries today are maintenance-free), fuel injector services (generally not needed as long as you don’t always drive with an near-empty fuel tank) and brake fluid flushes on 2-3 year old cars. Brake fluid flushes are only recommended if there is 2% water in the brake fluid or if the manufacturer recommends it at a specific interval and mileage. - Ask for Pictures
If you must be at work while the car is in for major service, don’t be afraid to ask the service advisor to snap and upload pictures of your car’s worn tires, brake or under-body parts before giving them the go-ahead to replace, or ask for measurements of the brake pads in millimetres if they are recommending new brakes that are going to cost a fortune. Only ask for pictures if the potential repairs are expensive. Trust them on the filters if they recommend them as they are relatively cheap but important. If they say no, then you say no to giving them business. At least one person in the dealer has a SmartPhone or a cell-phone with a camera that they can upload to their computers to e-mail you.
- Ask About Extended Warranty Privileges
If you purchased an extended warranty, the package may include several free oil changes. If you don’t recall whether the extended warranty package you bought includes them or not, ask the service advisor to check for you – they have access to that info. It may turn out that you do, and if say you had 4 oil changes as part of the package, you save about $200 in maintenance.
Hope these help. Now Drive on....
Monday 17 October 2011
Reduce Gas Pain and Wallet Drain
Here are some basic fuel-saving tips published by Consumer Reports: http://news.consumerreports.org/cars/2011/03/10-tips-to-improve-fuel-economy-and-save-money-on-gas.html
On top of the recommendations by Consumer Reports, here are my 5 extra, not-so-obvious tips to help you maximize your fuel savings:
- Make Use of Your Retained Power
Most newer cars today have a retained power feature which gives you up to a minute to close your windows and your sunroof if you turn off your engine but keep the keys in the ignition. Using the retained power instead of keeping the engine idling while you’re waiting for the windows and sunroof to close can lead to small but significant fuel savings over a long period of time.
- Get Everything Ready First!
Most people idle their cars as they are buckling up their children, loading cargo, plugging in their phone to the charger, checking e-mail on their SmartPhone, chatting with a neighbour while the engine is running, shovelling snow, and/or tuning the radio and adjusting their music lists before driving off. What would help save gas is to turn off the engine while loading, and have all your music and items to be charged plugged in or set up in your ignition’s Accessory setting before starting up and driving off. Heck, forget about the drive-thru. Go inside Starbucks or Tim Hortons.
I really want to emphasize that needless idling is a huge drain on fuel economy. According to Natural Resources Canada, idling longer than 10 seconds uses more fuel and produces more carbon dioxide compared to restarting the engine. They recommend that if you are going to be stopped for more than a minute, turn off the engine (unless you’re in traffic).
- Have Your Brakes Inspected or Serviced at Least Once a Year
Some people may have sticking brakes, especially in the rear, or a parking brake that doesn’t disengage all the way, both of which could cause dragging of one or more wheels, forcing the engine to work harder, and thus consuming more fuel in the process to get you up to speed. As you can imagine, this forces the engine to have to work harder, and in the process, consumes more gas and worse yet, wear out your brake parts.
Have your brakes serviced and inspected at least once a year if not twice to make sure everything is moving and well-lubricated. This is one up-sell at service shops and dealers I recommend you take them up on. The perfect time to inspect and service your brakes would be when you are changing from winter to summer wheels, and vice versa.
- Reset Your Trip Meter & Fuel Economy Calculator after Every Fill-up
Many newer cars have a digital fuel economy calculator (in L/100km), and all cars have a trip meter, both of which should be reset whenever you fill up. Seeing how many L/100km you are consuming as well as how many total kilometres you are getting out of a tank could serve as a guide for you to adjust your driving to save gas.
Furthermore, by resetting every time you fill up and being vigilant on the calculations, any unusual increases in fuel consumption could help you monitor the state of your engine’s health, or tip you off to check your tire pressure, inspect your air filter or have the brakes checked.
- Opt for the Smaller Tire &Wheel Package When Buying or Leasing a New Car
When purchasing or leasing a new vehicle, there may be a few wheel and tire choices in terms of style and sizes. Unless a bigger wheel package is forged and made of lightweight metals (mostly available on performance cars), opt for smaller wheels (i.e. the standard 18” wheels vs. the 20” chrome wheels). Heavy wheels like chrome wheels increase fuel consumption because they are not only bigger and often wider, but they act as extra un-sprung weight on the car. By having smaller, lighter wheels, this can support fuel economy over the long term, as well as reduce costs when it comes to purchasing replacement tires.
Keep these extra tips in mind, and feel free to leave a comment below to let me know if they’ve helped or not.
Drive on….
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